Masonry Magazine May 2003 Page. 31
Good quality carbide requires very little
sharpening and keeps a strong edge, even on the hardest of stone.
Stone Working Chisels and Hammers
GOOD QUALITY TOOLS that are developed specifically for stone masonry are much more expensive than similar brick-working tools. David Rael, president of Rael Inc., distributors of the Rhino Tool line, explains, "Chisels with carbide bits are the best for working with hard stone. Our customers tell us that using our carbide tip chisels saves 50 percent in labor compared to using standard steel chisels."
Carbide-tipped chisels are constructed in two different ways. The carbide bit can be braised or butt-welded directly to the tip of the chisel often resulting in tool failure because the carbide bit has little support when being struck against a stone. Tools with the carbide tip recessed into a groove at the tip of the chisel are of better quality because the sides of the carbide bit are protected, and the bit is less likely to break off or fracture.
Rael notes another difference: "We make the part of the chisel that you hold on to, called the body, in two stylesz a round body for most average sized hands our best seller and an oval body more suitable for large or extra large hands."
A common problem that stonemasons face is injury from missing the chisel when striking it with a hammer, and instead striking their hand. Chisel manufactures have developed rubber guards that are mounted to the back of their chisels to eliminate this problem, but carbide tip chisels do not have this guard added; the rubber guard is very awkward and gets in the way of the user's view of the work.
Rael comments, "We sell a round hammer, which greatly decreases the problem of the mason striking his own hand. It is very similar to a wood carvers hammer but developed for stone. The head is bell-shaped and gives a much larger striking area for contacting the chisel. This hammer design also reduces fatigue on the user's arm because of its design: the weight of the hammer head is central to the handle versus a double ended hammer that has weight placed on both sides of the handle, a style that creates a 'wobbling' effect and an excessive amount of fatigue to the user's forearm."
Like stone working chisels, stone working hammers come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Most stonemasons who use a hammer all day to shape stone prefer a three or four pound hammer. Larger hammers up to 24 pounds are used to do initial splitting and shaping of large boulders. Once they are reduced to smaller, more manageable sized pieces, hammers and chisels come into play for the finished product.
"Rhino stone hammers are made in very small batches, usually 25 to 50 at a time," claims Rael. "Our hammers are fired in a small oven, which evenly distributes and concentrates the proper heat to a smaller area. We "Thru-Harden' each head- the same hardness is through the entire thickness of the hammer's head. Our hammers can be sharpened on a bench grinder for maintenance, and as long as the user does not overheat the steel, the hardness is not damaged and the hammer will continue to keep a very strong sharpened edge. We suggest to have a bucket of water close by and dip the hammer head to keep the steel cool while it is being sharpened."
Mortar Jointers
BRICKLAYERS USE a jointer to finish the mortar "joint" between bricks or concrete blocks as they lay up a wall. The curved surface of the blade is run along the still damp, pliable mortar to press a smooth concave finish into the joint. A smooth finished joint is important for a consistent, architecturally pleasing appearance and also to help prevent water from penetrating the mortar and deteriorating the integrity of the finished masonry wall.
The jointer from Hubbard Jointers, Inc., Cheney, Wash., is a professional tool that helps accomplish professional results. The tools fit the hand comfortably and are angled to help keep the mason's knuckles above the work. The wear surfaces of the jointer are tubular steel blades heat-treated to careful specifications. The blades are very hard and wear far longer than most other jointers. Wear is distributed during use by giving the blade an occasional turn. A worn blade is replaced by removing it and screwing on a replacement.
Replacement blades are available in four sizes, a variety that allows the mason to adjust his Hubbard Jointer to jobsite conditions that require various joint depths without having to purchase.
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May 2003
Masonry 29